Turns out I was wrong. Maybe not about the occasional junior partner trying to get laid with help from expensive cocktails, but about nearly everything else. The doormen couldn’t be friendlier, and the servers are knowledgeable without being snobby, like seasoned sommeliers who try to understand your palate before offering suggestions. Inside it’s all dark woods and dim lighting, muscular but refined, cozy but almost speakeasy dangerous, if you can forget it’s only a few steps off Rittenhouse Square. And of course, there are the drinks, each one crafted with the same bathing suit store care and attention to detail you’d expect to find on a plate at Vetri. My favorite is an off-menu standard, the Penicillin, a smoky bomb of scotch whiskey, Islay malt, ginger, honey and lemon juice. And that artisanal ice? Not some ridiculous foodie invention, but simply snowball-sized fists of ice that melt slow and keep your cocktail chilled, not diluted. The Franklin is one of the city’s drinking gems, yet I’ve rarely
Bathing Suit had to wait in line before slipping inside.
That might change now that Esquire has named it one of the “Best New Bars in America,” a title that’s well-deserved. But while the magazine gives praise, it can’t help but take a few swipes at our city and its bar scene. With only a few exceptions, it says, Philly was all “Malibu and flavored vodka and thump-thump music.” That sounds like a description of the bathing suit 2010 Gayborhood circa 2002. My guess is that Esquire didn’t spend much time actually drinking here, as also suggested by this curious line: “We’ve heard good things about the new Farmers’ Cabinet.” Heard? From who? Their publicists? Yelp? They got lucky with that one, as Farmers’ Cabinet is worthy of the attention, as is Southwark on Bainbridge. The mag tips its cap—or its fedora, or whatever Esquire men/Justin Timberlake are wearing these days—with kind words about all the “good beer to be had here.” ed hardy bathing suit True. But it can’t resist closing with a parting shot: “A few more bars like these and you could start getting used to the place.” C’mon, Esquire. You’re better than that. Or at least you should be. Spare us—and the rest of the world that lies beyond the edge of the Hudson—the condescending, elitist Manhattan media bullshit. Next time the mag sizes up the nation’s best bars, I hope it makes the long, harrowing journey down the turnpike and spends some quality time here. And I hope the Franklin doesn’t get overrun by tourists and guys in Ed Hardy shirts now that they’re getting all of this attention. I could really use a drink.
没有评论:
发表评论